Sunday November 3rd, 2024
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This Luxury Nile Dahabiya Once Belonged to the Egyptian Royal Family

Gliding between Luxor and Aswan, a stay aboard the Set Nefru is one that traverses not just places, but time itself.

Ziyad El-Helbawy

What did a Nile cruise look like centuries ago? One need not search far and wide to find the answer, as the very same “cruises” that traversed the Nile years ago have not stopped caressing its banks since. Before the general public would come to know them as Nile cruise ships, they were—and some still remain—Egyptian dahabiyas. 

Among the dwindling few still sailing the Nile, the Set Nefru boasts a lineage that can be traced back to royalty. Built nearly 90 years ago for the Egyptian royal family, this elegant vessel transitioned from nobility to notoriety amidst top society after the revolution in 1952. Its planned future as a floating restaurant was swiftly upended when a French nobleman and archaeologist with an interest in Egyptian history took the helm. He made Set Nefru his winter retreat, hosting an exclusive roster of celebrities and dignitaries that were drawn to the mystique of the Nile. 


Now, decades later and under new ownership, the dahabiya is reborn as Set Nefru—a private charter with a French-Egyptian flair, gallivanting between Luxor and Aswan following two years of rigorous transformation overseen by a team of 50 craftsmen. Each detail, from the wooden furnishings to the kilims, has been curated to reflect Set Nefru’s historical Egyptian essence. She (yes, she) is entirely wind-powered, with a trusty Garrar—a tugboat—at her side, ready to assist when the winds refuse to cooperate. 

The refurbished dahabiya offers an exclusive opportunity to explore the Nile in complete privacy. Depending on your whim, your journey can last anywhere from three to eight days, whisking you—and seven to nine more people—through some of Egypt’s most breathtaking historical sites between Luxor and Aswan. 

This early 20th-century vessel features five luxury cabins accommodating up to ten passengers, each painted in light, relaxing hues, and equipped with bookcases filled with novels meant to be read to the whoosh of the waves and the slight hum of the winds. Need a book recommendation? ‘Death on the Nile’ feels like a fitting literary companion…just for bits and giggles. 

And what’s a luxurious stay without a serene base? Set Nefru operates in partnership with Moudira Hotel in Luxor, a tranquil retreat founded by photographer and jewellery designer Zeina Aboukheir, who first set foot on these banks after disembarking from a felucca decades ago. 

As you glide along the Nile with the wonders of Ancient Egyptian civilisation in full view, you'll find solace on the shaded upper deck, adorned with traditional, Egyptian style with kilims and period rattan furniture—a perfect spot for sipping cocktails from the fully stocked bar, while soaking in the scenery. And for those looking to unwind, onboard massages, personal fitness sessions, and yoga classes can be arranged. 

Featuring Set Nefru’s elegantly designed saloon, the Main Deck is where you can sink into plush seating, explore the library, and savour intimate dinners by candlelight. And, if you’re into casual sessions of disassociation, it’s fun to lay back, close your eyes and pretend to be an early 20th century traveller in search of solace along the banks of the Nile. 

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